𝐌𝐫. 𝐑𝐞𝐧𝐝𝐞𝐫 | 𝐒𝐜𝐮𝐥𝐩𝐭𝐢𝐧𝐠 𝐚 𝐓𝐫𝐨𝐥𝐥 𝐇𝐞𝐚𝐝 𝐰𝐢𝐭𝐡 𝐏𝐨𝐥𝐲𝐦𝐞𝐫 𝐂𝐥𝐚𝐲

May 28, 2021 in Art Doll Making Videos, Art Doll Techniques, Artistic Inspiration, Fantasy Art Doll

During a recent period of artist block, I was inspired to get up to a bit of sculpting a troll head with polymer clay. Meet Mr. Render, an underworld enforcer troll-like character that I created. I’ve often had a fondness for period gangster film and television like Guy Ritchie’s “Lock, Stock, & Two Smoking Barrels” and “Snatch” as well as “Peaky Blinders”. While I also enjoy American period crime drama, I really enjoy stories of the cockney accented London east enders. The idea for Mr. Render “The Ender” was sparked by such media as well as tough-man turned actor Lenny “The Guv’nor” McLean who was cast as Barry “The Baptist” in Ritchie’s “Lock, Stock”. McLean was not only cast in such roles, but also was something of that in real life in addition to being a champion in illegal bare knuckle boxing. There’s a documentary on him on Amazon Prime called “The Guv’nor” that I’d recently watched.

Watch Mr. Render | Sculpting a Troll Head with Polymer Clay

Sketching-out some design ideas for the troll.

The armature of this troll bust is just some crumpled up tin-foil that I built-up a Sculpey polymer clay form up around. Once the basic shape’s formed it’s then a matter of adding bits of clay here and there and refining the details with clay tools- steel tools, color shapers, and ball styluses as well as my fingers. I wanted to give this creature a very characterful face that recalls the look of the elongated snouts of storybook trolls. I also have a tendency to enjoy depicting characters with large noses and beady eyes (in this case, made from actual beads), which I didn’t fail to deliver on with this sculpt.

Eye, Mouth, Nose Placement

Here I’m just looking to put markings for the eyes, nose, and mouth and using a steel tool to do so.

Refining Around the Mouth

I’m using a color shaper to help refine the form of the mouth, adding in little wrinkles to create some texture.

Texturing & Detailing

I’m going around the face and adding in details that help reinforce this character as being rugged, rough-and-tumble.

One of my favorite costuming references, “Historic Costume in Pictures”

The sculpture’s only a bust, but I decided I wanted to add some fabric costuming. For that I turned to one of my favorite resources to page through, “Historic Costume in Pictures” for inspiration. Using some white fabric with some added ruffles and a grey fabric, I implied a fashionable gentlemanly suit. I generally find I can accomplish what I want with the simple whip and running stitches, which is great because I’m by no means an amazing tailor. The ruffles were made with some Fabri-Tac seams, accordion folding the pieces (I went over them with an iron to help reinforce the folds), and then using a gathering stitch to attach each progressively shorter layer to the one underneath.

Mr. Render isn’t exactly a troll. In this fantasy world I’ve been building, I kind of see most humanoid creatures as individuals with their own unique characteristics and sometimes abilities. I’m mostly breaking with the fantasy trope of races of creatures that all have X characteristics like elves or goblins or whatever. I think of all of that stuff as a pretty modern conception that’s sort of been ingrained in us through pop culture, genre writing, role-playing games, video games, that sort of stuff, but terms like fairy, elf, spirit, and goblin were used pretty interchangeably throughout mythology and folklore to just refer to some thing not of this world.

I’m considering the idea of doing a silicone mold and resin casting him and hand sewing on clothes Mr. Rend. For this reason I filled in some gaps in his sharp teeth with some Apoxie Sculpt so they wouldn’t get caught in the silicone while molding. Doing a silicone mold would let me paint different colorations of this creature and I could use different fabrics to create variations. For example, he could be in a simple cloak- maybe with a hood.

Here’s an idea of what the troll bust would look like with a simple cloak.

Thanks for joining me so far and here’s to the adventures we have in future! To be the first to know when I launch new polymer clay art videos, be sure to subscribe to my YouTube channel and hit the bell icon. Catch all of my videos here: https://www.youtube.com/thedreamsyndicatearts. You can also find many of the supplies I use in crafting here: https://www.thedreamsyndarts.com/supplies-gear/. And sign-up for my newsletter (in the sidebar) to get the latest studio goings-on! Thanks so much for joining me on this journey and until next time: Make. Believe!

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𝐉𝐮𝐬𝐭 𝐒𝐊𝐔𝐋𝐋𝐏𝐓𝐈𝐍𝐆 💀| 𝐌𝐚𝐤𝐢𝐧𝐠 𝐌𝐢𝐧𝐢𝐚𝐭𝐮𝐫𝐞 𝐒𝐤𝐮𝐥𝐥𝐬 𝐰𝐢𝐭𝐡 𝐏𝐨𝐥𝐲𝐦𝐞𝐫 𝐂𝐥𝐚𝐲

December 16, 2020 in Art Doll Accessories, Artistic Inspiration, Art Doll Techniques

I wanted to have the figure standing on a pile of skulls and so I sculpted a bunch of miniature skulls with polymer clay as an art doll prop in the image. I was inspired by stylized works by people such as Shaun Tan from his book “The Singing Bones” and by the work of sculptor Dug Stanat.

Watch me get up to some Skullpting

Prints of the dimensional-illustrations made with the redcap art doll are available here:

Open Edition Prints

“Redcap’s Rage” https://www.inprnt.com/gallery/thedreamsyndicate/redcaps-rage-evil-fae-fantasy-art/

”Redcap’s Rest” https://www.inprnt.com/gallery/thedreamsyndicate/redcaps-rest-evil-fae-fantasy-illustration/

“Redcap’s Reaping” https://www.inprnt.com/gallery/thedreamsyndicate/redcaps-reaping-wicked-fae-fantasy-art/

The skulls were made with original Sculpey, which is something I generally avoid using unless it’s for a background element. The issue I tend to have with sculpting with the original polymer clay’s that it’s really soft and gets even softer as your hands warm up as you work with it. In this case, I set myself the challenge of making these little sculptures with minimal clay, with each skull being mostly comprised of aluminum foil and also that I would make each one quickly, spending less than five minutes on each individual sculpture.

Once sculpted and baked in the oven, the skulls were tinted with raw umber ink, painted with a lightly earthy tinted white, and a final wash of ink was again applied. I found the change of pace freeing to work in such a loose and abstracted style.

𝐃𝐈𝐘 𝐏𝐨𝐬𝐞𝐚𝐛𝐥𝐞 𝐅𝐚𝐮𝐱 𝐌𝐄𝐓𝐀𝐋 𝐓𝐮𝐭𝐨𝐫𝐢𝐚𝐥 | 𝐀𝐫𝐭 𝐃𝐨𝐥𝐥 𝐀𝐜𝐜𝐞𝐬𝐬𝐨𝐫𝐢𝐞𝐬

August 15, 2020 in Artistic Inspiration, Art Doll Making Videos, Art Doll Accessories, Art Doll Techniques

For my latest dimensional illustration, Lord Bledwall, I wanted his robe to have a poseable metal trim- it wasn’t utilized so much in this image I made with him, but if I decide to use him in future images, I’ve some variety of what I can do with the moveable faux metal piece. This technique can be used not just for metal clothing adornment for a variety of art doll accessories like fantastical weapons or maybe metallic tentacles. Making these DIY poseable faux metal elements only requires some basic supplies and tools as well as some handicraft skills. If you can measure and cut things, you can absolutely make these! You can find the necessary supplies, instructions, or even watch how they were made below.

Watch how they were made: DIY Poseable Faux Metal Tutorial | Art Doll Accessories

Click on any of the items below & you’ll be taken to a corresponding Amazon page, which helps support my art with no additional cost to you.

Faux Metal Making Supplies Needed:

We’ll start-off with a length of 18 gauge aluminum wire. I’m basing the length of the wire on about how long I think the art doll’s robe should be. We’ll twist it up with our pliers and depending on what you’re doing or if it’s visible, you might want to snip the uneven edge of the wire with your wire-cutters.

Once that’s done, we’ll roll out a length of medical paper tape. And cut it to size. I like to cut it so it's about as wide as 3-4 times the thickness and about as long as the wire. We’re going to wrap the paper tape around lengthwise… this part’s tricky because the paper tape wants to snag on itself (a little bit of this is OK though!). You want to make sure it’s wrapped around snug to the wire. We’ll wrap the wire two, maybe three times if desired.

Then we’ll soak both ends of it in some water for a little while- anywhere from 10 minutes to an hour on either side to get the paper tape thoroughly saturated. Next we’ll spread some heavily Mod Podge diluted with water across it. I’ll do a couple more layers, letting the piece dry in-between, where I add in more and more silver acrylic paint and progressively less water with each subsequent layer. What that’s doing is seeping the pigment into the paper fibers of the tape. This is a similar method to how I go about creating my poseable art doll hands.

We’ll measure a thin strip of the a foam sheet, which is going to give us the segments of this sort of spinal shape that I’m making for this poseable faux metal trim. I like using foam because it’s flexible and you can easily texture and paint it. We’ll make a thin strip. And another little strip that will serve as a template for the other pieces we’ll cut. And we’ll just trace it all down the length of the foam strip. Then we’ll cut them out with our X-acto.

Here’s a quick note on failure: I’d tried using 2 part resin epoxy (another adhesive that I commonly use. Use with caution) and for whatever reason, it didn’t seem to hold. I’m not sure if I messed up the timing on the set time or what… it just wasn’t seeming to work at all. It might be that it wasn’t the right adhesive for the job.

We’ll use some of an old bottle of Fabri-Tac- this was made clear by the way I need to fish it out with a bit of scrap wire. I tried clothes pins to hold the foam pieces on as I went, but didn’t think they held it on snugly enough. I found a better solution by wrapping them with tiny scraps of wire that I had lying around. Being a bit of a pack-rat for the win!

Now we’re just going to take a sharpened pencil and use it to indent into the surface, score into it a bit with a pointy clay tool, and I also got some interesting textures from using needle files like one would use in jewelry making.

Then we’ll just go in with our silver acrylic paint onto the spinal form. One layer of metallic paint leaves a lot of the black of the foam showing through, which depending on what you’re doing, might be how you want it to look. I ended painting on three layers. You might consider using spray paint, but the propellant, what makes the paint shoot out of the can, tends to have a melting effect on a lot of foam-like surfaces. So that melting would either have to be a part of your design choice or you’d have to seal your foam in some way that also didn’t involve spraying the sealant on.

We’ll do an ink wash with this transparent raw umber. Unless I want a detail heavily accented, I tend to add a little water to the ink and even sometimes a tiny dab of dish soap. You can see how that ink wash is bringing up all the dents and scratches on the surface. After the ink’s been on the surface for a minute or two, we’ll wipe away the excess to make the details a little more subtle. We’ll repeat this process with each additional coating of ink. Since I liked the patina the ink was giving this, we’ll go ahead and do another wash. Each layer’s going to tint it just a bit darker. Another thing we can do is go back and put some ink inside some of the little holes and scratches to really bring them out. Here I’m using much more saturated ink and picking-out individual details.

My sketch of Lord Bledwall had these blade bits sticking out the sides of the metal trim like a spinal column, I’d already gotten pretty far on this build (and should’ve put them in sooner).... so I was in a mental fight over risking messing up what I’d already done (and really liked) and also my laziness didn’t want to do anymore work… or I could make this a bit cooler by spending the time to add them on. It was a hard fought battle, but “making it cooler” won, so I cut bits of blade out of some Bristol board, sliced tiny grooves that I could put the narrower ends of the blades into, and used resin epoxy both inside the grooves, and thinly applied it to the narrow end of the blade form. Once the two part resin epoxy set, I then carefully painted and ink washed the blades.

As a warning: pretty much everything in creativity’s a conflict of “good enough” and saving some amount of hours of work versus “putting in a bit more effort and making the thing cooler”.

Sewing faux metal trim with coordinating thread.

Having made the thing sufficiently cooler, we’ll attach the metal trim by sewing it on with a gray thread that will sort of blend-in with the paint job we’ve done. We’ll sew in from the back, make a loop, tie off our thread a few times, cut it, and repeat that process up the length of the trim. Here you can see what it looks like once it’s all attached.

Lord Bledwall’s also has a faux metal texture bladed mantle that I’ll do a “making of” process blog and video similar to this one if you want to see how that was made. When it’s ready, you’ll be able to click here. If you use techniques you learned from any of my posts, I’d be happy to take a look. You can tag me on whatever social media platform you’re posting to. You can find my links below!

If you would like a print of Lord Bledwall, you can purchase it here.

PRINTS AVAILABLE

A print of the final dimensional illustration’s available through my print shop as an open edition.

You can also find many of the supplies I use in crafting here: https://www.thedreamsyndarts.com/supplies-gear/. And sign-up for my newsletter (in the sidebar) to get the latest studio goings-on! Thanks so much for joining me on this journey and until next time: Make. Believe!

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